True emblems of masculine elegance, brogue shoes for men are an essential part of the contemporary wardrobe. With their slender silhouette, discreet lacing and refined construction, they have stood the test of time without ever going out of style.
From the court of the Sun King to today’s costumes
Born in England in the 18th century, brogue shoes for men are also known as “oxford shoes” across the Channel, “balmoral shoes” in Ireland and Scotland, and “bal-type” in the United States. They owe their French name to a sophisticated, aristocratic evocation.
This French appellation has its origins in the court of King Louis XIV, whose tastes and stylistic choices radiated throughout Europe. The Duc de Richelieu was renowned for his avant-garde elegance.
He is said to have given his name to this iconic men’s shoe. Originally, they were reserved for academics and the elite. Today, they can be worn on special occasions or with formal attire.
Special features of brogue shoes for men
The main difference between a men’s brogue shoe and a derby model lies in the lacing system. On a brogue shoe, the lacing is said to be closed: the quarters (the lateral parts of the upper where the eyelets pass) are sewn under the vamp (the upper front part of the shoe, covering the top of the foot).
This means that when the shoe is laced up, the leather forms a continuous line, elegantly tightened over the instep.
In contrast, the derby features open lacing, with quarters sewn over the vamp, leaving more space and flexibility on the top of the foot.
This detail, as technical as it is aesthetic, influences the overall silhouette of the shoe: richelieu visually elongates the leg. They are therefore the natural choice for formal contexts, structured suits and ceremonial outfits.
The Paraboot derby is often preferred for everyday use or when comfort is a priority, especially for wider feet.
Choosing a men’s brogue shoe means opting for an elegant style and a taste for fine materials and precise cuts.
Emblematic figures at the service of style
Over the decades, men’s brogue shoes have been adopted by some of the greatest personalities of the 20th century. Winston Churchill, for example, never left his perfectly polished black shoes (often Oxford models).
In another register, Cary Grant, who embodies the image of the Hollywood gentleman, regularly wore smooth leather richelieus with his suits.
James Bond, in most of his incarnations, opts for Oxford. These choices are never insignificant. The richelieu is worn in all eras and all walks of life.
Men’s richelieu shoes: the details that make all the difference
The men’s richelieu shoe is distinguished above all by its closed lacing design. This elegant assembly, close to the foot, gives the shoe a clean line.
At Paraboot, every richelieu model is designed with balance in mind. Smooth leather remains the preferred choice for its discreet sheen. For bolder variations, patent leather adds a ceremonial touch, while suede brings a more casual look.
When it comes to color, men’s richelieus shoes come in a sober, nuanced palette: black for special occasions or the office, dark brown for a classic look, or cognac for more casual outfits.
Designed for formal contexts, men’s richelieus pair equally well with a suit, a well-cut chino and a casual jacket.
Different types of men’s brogue shoes
Whether sober or daring, richelieus come in many variations to suit every fashion and function.
The brown brogue shoe, a timeless pair
Easy to wear every day, it goes equally well with charcoal gray, beige or navy, making it a wardrobe staple.
Black men’s brogue shoes, formal elegance
In black, brogue shoes for men are more formal. The perfect partner for formal events, important meetings or formal dinners. A sure choice to accompany a suit with confidence.
Shades of brown and cognac, for a more casual touch
The slightly lighter cognac brogue shoes are chosen for their originality. They offer a play of contrasts with raw denim jeans or ecru pants, a stylish option for those who like to pay attention to detail.
Suede or smooth leather? A question of context
Smooth leather remains the safe bet for professional environments or important events. Suede, visually softer, invites a more casual elegance, perfect for a dinner out on the town or a polished weekend.
The excellence of high-end models
Lovers of exceptional pieces will find in richelieu shoes a true work of craftsmanship. With Goodyear stitching, hand-patinated full-grain leathers and meticulous perforation detailing, every stitch is an expression of savoir-faire.
Why choose leather brogue shoes?
A pair of leather richelieu shoes is a long-term investment . Leather, a living material, develops a patina over time, gaining in character and suppleness.
Smooth leather enhances the shape of the shoe and gives it a discreet sheen. Comfort improves as the leather conforms to the shape of the foot.
At Paraboot, craftsmen design each leather richelieu to endure the years: sewn soles, traditional assembly and leather carefully selected for its density and finesse.
Our maintenance tips
To preserve this quality, proper care is essential. Clean your leather richelieus with a soft cloth to remove impurities. Then apply a nourishing cream in the same shade as the shoe.
For a more sophisticated look, you can glaze with a high-quality wax applied in thin, circular layers.
This technique consists of shining your leather shoes to a mirror-like effect, by delicately superimposing wax and water on the most rigid parts of the shoe, such as the hard toe or heels.
The quality of your glaze is ensured by subtly alternating wax and water. In a single stroke, apply a thin layer of shoe polish to the area to be glazed, then stroke the leather in small circles, never staying in one precise spot. The gesture should not be particularly rapid for the first few cycles.
Pay close attention to the evolution of touch. During this phase, you should notice an evolution from a greasy to a dry feel. When you think you’ve reached a stable state of dry touch, move on to the second phase.
This involves dipping the tip of your ring finger (on the hand holding the cloth) into your container of water. Apply a single drop of water to the area to be glazed. Immediately afterwards, spread this drop of water over the entire surface to be glazed, then stroke the leather of your shoe in small circles, never staying in one precise spot.
You’ll notice a return to a greasy feel, which then transforms back into a dry feel. When the state of the touch seems stable, you can repeat the cycle.
Last but not least, store your shoes in untreated wooden trees, away from moisture.
A well-maintained pair of richelieu is a shoe that can be passed on.
How do you choose your first pair of men’s brogue shoes?
If you’re new to the world of dress shoes, it’s best to choose a sober pair. A pair of smooth leather shoes in dark brown, for example, will do the trick: easy to match, they look just as good with a suit as they do with a pair of jeans.
Avoid models that are too sharp to begin with: simplicity is often the surest form of elegance. Make sure the lacing provides good support. With its closed system, the richelieu should hold your foot without compressing it.
Don’t hesitate to try on several sizes, or to ask for advice in the store, as a good fit is essential to the model’s durability. And don’t forget to invest in shoe trees as soon as you buy your shoes – it makes all the difference in the long run.
How to wear men’s brogue shoes for every occasion?
Men’s richelieu dress shoes are a natural choice for formal occasions such as ceremonies, business meetings and formal evenings.
In a professional context
Brown men’s richelieus shoes go perfectly with wool pants, a light-colored shirt and a structured jacket. The result is a formal outfit that remains dynamic, professional and polished.
For a more casual look
If you’re looking for a slightly more casual alternative without sacrificing the style of your outfit, choose a richelieu model. This crossover allows you to adopt a slightly softer look, which is ideal for less formal days or weekend outfits. It retains a touch of natural elegance while offering greater freedom of movement.
With a suit or in casual chic
In black or brown leather, the richelieu is the perfect complement to a well-tailored suit. But they can also venture into more casual territory: velvet pants, raw denim jeans, textured blazers. All you need to do is find the right tone, and the right balance between formality and casualness.
Inspiration for better brogue shoes wear for men
The richelieu style lends itself to many interpretations. Inspired by British dandies, classicists opt for a pinstripe suit and silk tie.
More contemporary spirits will wear their cognac brogue shoes with jeans and a shirt. As for lovers of minimalism, a monochrome grey ensemble with a pair of black brogue shoes always makes an impact.
Paraboot’s must-have brogue shoes models for men
Each pair is designed as a unique object, crafted according to the demands of tradition and the codes of contemporary elegance. Today, Paraboot offers the Montaigne as an emblematic brogue shoes for men model.
Inspired by a traditional pattern, it features closed lacing, with the front of the shoe slipping under the quarters.
This construction gives the shoe a slim line and a dressy look, ideal for slim feet and elegant silhouettes. Mounted with Goodyear stitching on a leather sole, the montaigne provides a certain comfort. Made in Europe with leather lining, they’re a trend-setter.
Technical focus: Goodyear stitching
An emblematic footwear technique, Goodyear stitching is renowned for its reliability and robustness. The outsole is attached to the upper with a welt, which is then sewn to the insole.
The result is a shoe that's stronger, more breathable and easier to resole.
At Paraboot, this know-how has been handed down from generation to generation. It allows each pair of brogue to last over time, while gradually adapting to the shape of the foot.
Material zoom: leather soles, elegance on the ground
Long considered a sign of quality, leather soles are still a must for dress shoes today.
Unlike rubber soles, leather soles allow better moisture evacuation and promote foot temperature regulation, making them ideal for long days.
Another significant advantage is its elegant, step-by-step sound, a sound detail that enthusiasts will recognize in a thousand words.
With proper care, they wear slowly and can be resoled several times, prolonging their lifespan. The leather sole is not just an aesthetic advantage.
Walking in style, lasting over time
Men’s brogue shoes are more than just shoes. They tell a story, one of assertive taste and a certain art of living. Indeed, these shoes are not limited to special occasions: you can also wear them every day.
Their versatility is one of the reasons they remain popular in the world of men’s fashion.
Choosing a brogue shoe model means choosing a shoe that you can care for and, above all, keep. At Paraboot, every pair tells a story, the story of excellent craftsmanship and authentic, long-lasting style.
For those looking for distinction, elegance without excess, Paraboot’s signature brogue shoes for men are perfect.
